It’s great to see talented California winemakers taking rosé seriously. Alex Krause and John Locke cut their teeth with Bonny Doon frontman Randall Graham in the mid 90s making some of California’s first artisan organic wines. They started Birichino as a small-batch affair focusing on European-styled wines made in the foggy Santa Cruz Mountains. The stars of their biodynamic Vin Gris are 125-year old Cinsault from Lodi’s Bechtold Vineyard and 115-year old Grenache from Santa Clara’s Besson Vineyard. The best (and least expensive) Provencal stunt-double around.